May 6, 2010

Lay Day

Today the surf went flat. But that didnt stop the fun. Now when I say the surf went flat what I mean to say is that it was only 3 ft. So it was what we like to call a lay day. Let me tell you what I did on my lay day. I started out the day with some mango pancakes and some fresh pineapple juice. After that headed back to the uma thats what they call the huts we stay in. Back in the uma me Hilton and BB had a movie day. We turned on the fans and sat back to enjoy the day off. We watched Zombieland. After that Rasta came by and joined for the 2nd movie it was a classic we watched North Shore. It was another whole movie with these guys calling out spots and people in the backround. After the movie was over we headed down to the beach for a little Alia surf session. For you who dont know what a Alia is, it is an wood plank that the ancient hawaiians use to surf on. They have no fin and dont really float you but once you get them going they are fun. after this we had just enough time to shower and head up for dinner. Tonight I sat with Rasta and talked with him about the movie The Cove. He is very insightful and knows his stuff. After dinner I headed back to the uma to notice two amazing things going on. One the stars. Tonight is the clearest night we have had so far and every star seems like it is only just out of reach in the sky, so amazing. Them something else something I have never seen before. Way off in the distance 8 glowing light on the water. Kind of looks like aliens or the moon coming up. But as it turns out it is fishing boats. Well new swell starts coming up tomorrow so I'm off to bed.


TOAD said...

Duckdive is at a break called A Frames. Notice the reef, very shallow and very sharp have not hit it yet knock on wood

Anonymous said...

good thing you duck dove that 1 foot wave... is this a juniors photo shoot?