So I am cleaning up my iTunes, you know making sure all song have and artist and a album name. When I came across this song. I don't remember how I first found this song but I do remember that the video is AMAZING! and I just wanted to share it with everyone. The guy in this video just make me laugh.
This is what my top turn looks like from underwater at 4 Bobs
So today the camp was awaken but a thunder storm. The first bang came at around 5 and was right over us. It was so loud that it shook the Uma. So anyways I was already up so I headed down for some pancakes. Everyone else rolling in around 5:30. At about 6:30 I started to say ok lets go surf but no one wanted to go cause the wind was strong and it was small the day before. After about an hour of trying to talk people into going and looking around, I got 6 people on board. And off we headed to Bank Vaults. And what happen when we pulled up....oh it was head high and off shore with only 2 guys out. I said you can thank me later grabbed my board and paddled out. Let me tell you a little bit about this break it kind of fast has one take off spot and all ways barrels. I got a few then right before we left I got pitched in one and hit my funny bone on my knee and my whole right arm from the elbow down went numb for like 10 mins. It was kind of scary cause it has never happen to be before and I was on the inside of a sharp reef. Luck for me it was the last wave of the set and I had time to get back out with not trouble. Tomorrow it looks like the group is heading back to Bank Vaults but I really want to try my hand at a new spot. Well it's movie time then off to bed.
Today the surf went flat. But that didnt stop the fun. Now when I say the surf went flat what I mean to say is that it was only 3 ft. So it was what we like to call a lay day. Let me tell you what I did on my lay day. I started out the day with some mango pancakes and some fresh pineapple juice. After that headed back to the uma thats what they call the huts we stay in. Back in the uma me Hilton and BB had a movie day. We turned on the fans and sat back to enjoy the day off. We watched Zombieland. After that Rasta came by and joined for the 2nd movie it was a classic we watched North Shore. It was another whole movie with these guys calling out spots and people in the backround. After the movie was over we headed down to the beach for a little Alia surf session. For you who dont know what a Alia is, it is an wood plank that the ancient hawaiians use to surf on. They have no fin and dont really float you but once you get them going they are fun. after this we had just enough time to shower and head up for dinner. Tonight I sat with Rasta and talked with him about the movie The Cove. He is very insightful and knows his stuff. After dinner I headed back to the uma to notice two amazing things going on. One the stars. Tonight is the clearest night we have had so far and every star seems like it is only just out of reach in the sky, so amazing. Them something else something I have never seen before. Way off in the distance 8 glowing light on the water. Kind of looks like aliens or the moon coming up. But as it turns out it is fishing boats. Well new swell starts coming up tomorrow so I'm off to bed.
What day is it. I have lost track of time and days as we know it. I wake up to the ocean, I go to dinner when the sun goes down and I go to sleep when I get sleepy (FYI that happens 2 times a day at night and at high noon after lunch its way to hot to be in the sun. If I did go surf it would most likely go something like this. Jump off the boat paddle out to the line up drop in bottom turn and MELT.
Speaking of bottom turn lets talk about the surf today. We had a massive storm last night and everyone kind of slept in. So it was a late start. But once we got started I once again took the road less traveled, when everyone took off to Bangvaults. I took off the Kandui a very fast left hander. It wasn't as big but hey guess what I got it to myself with only the boat driver unlike the 25 other guys fighting for the peak at the other place. We surfed it for about and hour then I got hungry cause they didn't make my breakfast before the boat was leaving. But on the way back I had some crackers with peanut butter and a Beng Beng (its like a ressestick) and washed it down with some apple juice. And its a good thing I did cause as we were pulling up A Frames was going off. It was about a 2 feet over head on the sets. I had the boat driver drop me off cause he had to go back for the rest of the group. I had a great time once again it was only me and two other guys out. I got my first INDO TUBE it was like no other tube I have got before. It was BLUE, FAST and POWERFUL. So today makes it 6 different waves I have surfed this trip while the rest of the crew has only surfed 4. Tomorrow is my lay day I am going to take the day of to cruz the island and take some photos.
Well its the end of Tuesday and so far it has been an amazing trip. Sorry I have not been posting photos the internet here really sucks. The last photos took 40 mins to upload. But once I get back I will post like crazy. Today was a great day surfed and helped with a photo shot for Transworld. Yep working on my vacation but it wasn't really work it was more fun to just be a part of it. I got lucky and get to stay with the pros and the photographers. It fun to sit up at night looking at the photos from the day talking shop. Hilton has invited me to go on this trip with him. Where they kayak down the coast with whales that are migrating and surf, camp and just raise awareness. It sounds amazing and I hope I can find time to take advantage of it. Well tomorrow I am going to take a day off from surfing and going to go for a swim with Brian Bielman and Hilton and try my hand at surf photography, wish me luck.
Just surfed out front with Donny and the photo boys. Let me tell you a little about four bobs. It is considered the easy wave here. Yeah it is if you are use to it. It is shallow, sharp and uneven. But after about 3 waves I got the feel of it and started to do some turn and not just fly to the shoulder. Brain Bielman a photographer for Transworld Surf got a great under water shot of one of my turns. It is crazy looking with the water trail and all the swirling water (will post later once I get it from him). Later today I am heading over to 3 palm island to do a little photo shot with Donny for transworld. Looking at maybe surfing A frames this afternoon.
Today I surf a place called Burgerworld. It was about 7ft punchy and fun. No barrels today but the swell is building so its going to get bigger and with that we should see some more tube sections. Tomorrow I think we are going to surf Being Being or eBays. I cant describe how amazing it is here. My hut smells like coconut and its nature doing it not a glade plug in. I am sleeping so go with the sound of waves and lighting storms every night. It is truly amazing here.
Day one on the island is amazing. But first let me tell you about the trip from Singapore. Getting to Jakarta to Padang to the island was a trip in its own. The flight from Singapore to Jakarta was cool way more packed then the other flights, but to say the least it was amazing. This was the first flight where we went over the equator (photo of clouds is the equator). Flying in over the rice patties and not a concrete jungle is just amazing. After landing we had to find our way to the the other side of the airport with over 60 surfboards to find our connecting flight to Padang.
The flight to Padang was fast and fun. From here we we had a bus ride through the city to a little hotel where we had to wait for our speed boat to be ready to take us out to the island. Well you know me I couldnt just sit in a hotel for an hour so I went for a walk and out on the beach I found a group of people pulling in a giant fishing net. I have seen this before in endless sumer. But to see it first hand is crazy.
Back at the hotel we got back on the bus and head to the docks where we got on the speed boats and headed down river to the ocean. Only to find that a storm was coming and we had two choices brave it and most likely get our asses kicked or head for this other island for the night. We opted for the island and it turned out to just be another great part in the trip.
The next morning we woke to beautiful skies and headed off to Kandui. The boat ride took 3 hours and 10 mins. After all this we made it to KANDUI. The place is like a screen saver. It is beautiful and HOT. I went for a swim in the Indian ocean to wash off all the travel. The water is so blue and clear. Tomorrow I head out for my first surf over live reef. Its going to be crazy. The surf is about one foot over head and perfect. Well until tomorrow.