May 5, 2010

Another Day of Adventure

What day is it. I have lost track of time and days as we know it. I wake up to the ocean, I go to dinner when the sun goes down and I go to sleep when I get sleepy (FYI that happens 2 times a day at night and at high noon after lunch its way to hot to be in the sun. If I did go surf it would most likely go something like this. Jump off the boat paddle out to the line up drop in bottom turn and MELT.
Speaking of bottom turn lets talk about the surf today. We had a massive storm last night and everyone kind of slept in. So it was a late start. But once we got started I once again took the road less traveled, when everyone took off to Bangvaults. I took off the Kandui a very fast left hander. It wasn't as big but hey guess what I got it to myself with only the boat driver unlike the 25 other guys fighting for the peak at the other place. We surfed it for about and hour then I got hungry cause they didn't make my breakfast before the boat was leaving. But on the way back I had some crackers with peanut butter and a Beng Beng (its like a ressestick) and washed it down with some apple juice. And its a good thing I did cause as we were pulling up A Frames was going off. It was about a 2 feet over head on the sets. I had the boat driver drop me off cause he had to go back for the rest of the group. I had a great time once again it was only me and two other guys out. I got my first INDO TUBE it was like no other tube I have got before. It was BLUE, FAST and POWERFUL. So today makes it 6 different waves I have surfed this trip while the rest of the crew has only surfed 4. Tomorrow is my lay day I am going to take the day of to cruz the island and take some photos.

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